My tools & techniques for macros

My tools for macrophotography are :

• Evident, the camera, and a UV filter that I set on it permanently - it doesn't do anything about the macro, though. 
• When I can, also my Raynox DCR-150 macro attachment lens, which offers 1.5 magnification, 
• and when in shape, I also take my tripod, the Vanguard Alta Pro 263AT, to which I added the SBH100 ball-head. Read about them at the bottom quarter or so of this entry.
• If I cannot or forgot to take with me the attachement, I use either macro or super-macro modes in my camera. The first is for any object 10-300cm away, whilst the latter allows coming close as 1cm, without being as detailed as the attachement's magnification 

I adapt my exposure and aperture to the light conditions, as well as the macro attachement which "eats" some of the light on the way into the camera. In general, I'll use 100 to 200, and never more than 400 ISO with my bridge camera, because it's not as sophisticated as a DSLR and high ISO = lots of noise in my case. I probably could push to 800, but thus far haven't needed it, even in the depths of the forest as it was daylight. 

Using the tripod is a must for the highest zoom levels, where instead of zooming from an infinite distance, it does so from under 22CM to my subject. 

My zoom is manually operated by turning the "zoom ring", ranging 24-720mm focal length (in 35mm format equivalence, hereafter shorted to FL). As long as I use the Raynox DCR-150 attachement which has a smaller radius than my camera lens, I have to apply X7 (200mm FL) to avoid seing  "rings" such as in this photo, I have to use X7zoom (200mm FL) minimum. (I forgot the name for these rings, will edit once I find it again). 

I can hand-hold my camera with image stabilization activated between that and about X15zoom (400mm FL) but surely, anything above X18 zoom (500mm) will need an additional tool, namely the tripod, and switching to manual focus. 

Hand holding at such high zooms isn't practical at all, as every tiny shake is translated in blurring the image and uncontrollable results in streaks and dots, even missing the subjects altogether if it's too small.  

As for the autofocus, it won't lock on anything at those high zooms, and repeated clicking will give you an out-of-focus subject, which may or may nor be an artistic choice, but will miss its details for sure, in increasing % as I apply my zoom closer & closer to its maximum.

Using the manual focus on my Fuji camera isn't the best in the world ; it's flimsy and a bit of a guess, at least for me, to know if I found the best image clarity after turning the focus ring and staring at the preview on my screen. Since this is the best I can afford at the moment, this is what I use, with some positive results after a lot of trials and patience. 

I started my macro shoots with inanimate objects, before I moved to living, moving creatures which needed this kind of photography : all kinds of insects. 

Prior to that, I had only use the macro mode of my Sony and Fuji cameras, from a fair distance, with more or less adequate results, even very good ones, but never as detailed as those with the attachement.

My sessions at home aren't always easy, with the yellow light from our bulbs, which render my post production a tedious task of guessing colors that aren't tinted from the bulb. When I can, therefore, I shut off the lights, open the curtains and start shooting, if my subject didn't move or fly away. 

I much prefer going outdoors, where I managed over the years to learn how to approach my living insects, slowly, carefully, not to alarm them. I do so with minimal impact on their lives, as I never attempt to catch them, and wait patiently for them to show up and get used to my presence. 

Despite this slow approach, some insects are very skittish and will fly away at the slightest move I make. Thus, some butterflies used to fly, and the very few hawkmoths or dragonflies that showed up in the forest where I shoot the most often, they'd be so far away that my results weren't satisfactory. I couldn't come close enough and had to use macro mode, or worse, telephoto, from afar, offering shadows and guessed shapes for dragonflies, whilst those fast moths would appear as blurred dots.

There are 3 distinct moments where insects tend to tolerate my presence more easily : mid morning, as most finished their "breakfast bustle'' ; mid-day in hot summer days where they try to sunbathe and relax, and towards sunset. Outside of those hours, it's more of a lottery.

During shoots without my macro lens, I can close my aperture enough to avoid over exposure from the sunlight, whilst with the attachement as well as further into the woods and under plants, I need to open the aperture as much as possible with my zoom level, adjust ISO, exposure time, and stabilize my camera to the best of my ability and conditions. 

When I have the opportunity, I click on the histogram indicator, to have an idea of my overall result, but this isn't always possible. Indeed, sometimes, I have the chance that a subject poses for me for 45 minutes, and doesn't scare away when I place my tripod and camera close to them, as long as my movements are slow, deliberate and don't alarm them. Other subjects will only accept a few seconds, and offer maybe 1-2 poses and go away. Never rush your subjects, let them live their natural lives, and don't hinder them. These efforts are annoying a bit if you want to get the best shot, but it's best to respect their lives.

There are two tools that I haven't gotten to use yet, the macro rail which would allow me to position the camera precisely and fine-tune my focusing distance from the subject

& this flash ring because they didn't include the adapter ring I need to use it with on my camera, alongside the macro attachement lens (due to respective diameters) 

The ring flash would allow to compensate for low light conditions in the woods, when they occur, and to avoid such a bright light that would a) render unnatural light on my subject & b) probably scare them off, whereas the ring has a softer and uniform light.
My only attempt with it showed the insect didn't care at all that there was one such a light.

The biggest issue with it is carrying extra weight, not only due to the ring but also that I need 4AA batteries for it, additionally to the 4 already in camera... and for longer mountain hikes, the most probable necessity to carry 8 extra!